Picnics in the Castle

They say here in Hawarden that occasionally the Leopold Gate is open and one can wander among the ruins of the 13th century Hawarden castle. I was lucky that last Sunday afternoon was one of those occasions and my colleagues here at Gladstone’s Library covered ‘duty’ for me so I could take advantage of the opportunity. The afternoon was sunny and mild (although the locals call it ‘hot’). I put a pound in my pocket (the entrance fee), took some water and headed through the red gate to the castle. I was surprised, actually, at just how much there was to see. I wandered the grounds and climbed as high as was possible into the castle itself for wonderful views of the area. The Gladstone Castle (residence of the Gladstone descendants) is beautifully visible from the grounds – as are the cricket fields where a lively game of cricket was underway.

Whole families were in attendance and some had brought picnic lunches to share in the grassy area that was probably once the inside of the castle itself. I don’t know a lot about the history here but I do know that here we are literally on the border between England and Wales. I know that border towns were (and still are) often the site of high tensions and often armed conflict. And I have read enough about this area to know that was the case in North Wales. That is why the Romans stationed a whole legion in Chester just a few miles away when they were here.

So there is a poignancy, when you think about it, to the tranquility and peace that has overtaken the stone walls, once fortified for defense. The biggest fights going on in this castle now are between the various forms of bushes and blossoms that battle for prominence. I know that the Bible has more than its share of war images and there are countless stories of God-anointed warriors winning the day. So why is it that images of pink flowers and trees slowly retaking stone parapets seems a better image of God’s vision for the world than the stories of battles won or lost in the name of God? Picnics in the castle – what a grand image for world peace! Young, old, some in hiking boots and tennis shoes, some in high heels, others in sandals, some straight from Sunday church, others in shorts and tank tops, teenagers racing each other to the barrier, grandparents stepping carefully over uneven ground, accents from all over – American, Canadian, Scottish, Welsh, Irish, English, Australian – all coming to a castle that hasn’t been used in hundreds of years. An image, perhaps, of a kind of peaceable kin-dom. And, of course, that is in the Bible too.

As I set off to climb the winding stairs inside the castle tower, I heard a family above me coming down so I waited in an alcove for them to pass. A Mom and young son came first, carefully picking their way on the narrow steps. Then came another, older child. Then the youngest boy being helped by his Dad who smiled and thanked me for waiting. The little guy thanked me too and then he stopped and, looking quite concerned, said to me: ‘Be careful up there. The rail isn’t real strong in some places. Sometimes it shakes (he demonstrated) and it can get very scary.’ I looked as concerned as possible and solemnly thanked him, at which point he continued down. His Dad, following closely, shrugged his shoulders, rolled his eyes as if to say – there’s no problem really – and smiled. If that child was in charge, this would be quite a friendly kingdom!

I don’t know how the last king – or owner of this castle – would feel about what has become of his property but I suppose it is all a reminder than it was never his to begin with. The beauties of nature and the promise of new life will win out in the end and a picnic on the castle ground is a nice way to celebrate our hope that such peace will break out more often, in more places.

Sabbath Wisdom

Each time I look out from the landing between the ground and first floors at Gladstone’s Library, the place I call home this month, I pause a moment to ponder Lady Wisdom. She commands a view of the garden area at the back of the Library.

How do we become wise? Does it simply come with age? Or with learning? Or with experience? Or with ‘hard knocks?’ Or with poverty? Or with books? Or with degrees and education? Does one need money to get it? Yet, even as I pose those questions, I – and we – know each answer would be a resounding ‘no!’ Though acquiring wisdom is aided immensely by a willingness to consider viewpoints not one’s own and by reading widely and – yes, age and experience can help – none of those things assures wisdom.

It would seem the single most important quality of the wise is captured beautifully in the sculpture of the Lady in the garden. She is caught in an eternal pause, a moment of pondering. At the crossroad of life, she stops and notices – what? Who? Does she know I watch her from the window? No matter . . . she teaches a simple lesson and invites an entirely do-able -and wise – response. Notice your world and the people in it. Observe the Sabbath. Take time. Leave a little space between the moments of busy-ness to breathe. None of these things, of course, assures wisdom . . . but I think they can help us touch toward wisdom.

As I observe the Sabbath this lovely July Sunday, I will walk today to a little Methodist Church I found on a road called ‘The Highway’ in a village named Ewloe (You-Low) about a 20 minute walk from here. And then, I will walk in the Wood and visit a castle.

Wherever in the world we find ourselves, may we each find the time to open the windows toward wisdom today.

And now, a poem by Wendell Berry. . .It is called simply “X”. And some pictures of Lady Wisdom.

Whatever is foreseen in joy
Must be lived out from day to day.
Vision held open in the dark
By our ten thousand days of work.
Harvest will fill the barn; for that
The hand must ache, the face must sweat.

And yet no leaf or grain is filled
By work of ours; the field is tilled
And left to grace. That we may reap.
Great work is done while we’re asleep.

When we work well, a Sabbath mood
Rests on our day, and finds it good.

-Wendell Berry (1979, Sabbaths)

No Stilletoes

Reflections on a Saturday morning as I wait for breakfast . . .

As I took a walk in the woods, I came across a most unusual sign. You’ll find it in the pictures: Pedestrians Only/No Stilletoes. I don’t even know if that is how one spells that word . . . but stilletoes? Seriously?

And then there was the sign about the Coronation Oak. The tree it marked was not any different from any of the others, but I liked the sign! And it is good to know that someone, at the beginning anyway, declared it ‘well and truly planted.’

I also liked the socks of the guy sitting next to me as I waited for the bus in Mold. He also had on a yellow shirt – but I tried to be discreet in getting this picture.

And there was a most unusual roof line – I took that picture for all of my builder friends: why would one make a roof like that?

I also loved the name for the playground near here: Gladstone Playing Fields. Complete with a carnival this weekend. ‘Playing Fields’ of course is no better a term than our ‘playground.’ It is just different and I liked it.

The church you see is the St. Mary’s Anglican Cathedral in Mold. A Cathedral with a banner . . . nothing wrong with that of course. Just interesting. Unfortunately, the Cathedral was not open – that is one of my ‘pet peeves.’ I think churches should be open more than they are not.

And, finally, you might wonder . . . what’s in a name . . .or, who would name their town ‘Mold?’ Suffice it to say, it sounds strange even here. But it is probably is a shorted version of a word that meant ‘hill.’

End of reflections for now . . . but please heed the most important advice of the day: when walking in the woods, or climbing a mountain, or exploring a castle – No Stilletoes!

Finding Castles

These days have been absolutely beautiful. The people here lament how ‘warm’ or ‘hot’ or ‘uncomfortable’ it is. After all, how does one endure 80 degree weather with constant sunshine? I say that tongue-in-cheek since I am delighting in it all!

Yesterday was ‘Founder’s Day’ celebrated with a lecture, given this year by A.C. Grayling on The Necessity of a Liberal Education. There were about 85 people in attendance and they were all crowded into the Library – you’ll notice the picture. Following the talk, there was cream tea on the library lawn. And that was followed later by a much smaller and wonderfully prepared dinner. I, of course, had never heard of ‘Founder’s Day.’ But I was here and so I was most welcome at the entire event. We who are staff, in fact, had seats in the upper level of the library for the talk. I guess those are considered less desirable seats . . . but I loved t up there. I marveled as the speaker delivered his entire talk without notes! Perhaps my favorite quote from yesterday is this: “A good education teaches people howto think, not whatto think.” I like that. I think that makes for good church ministry as well. Together, we work to understand the gospel message and how to live it today . . . rather than simply convincing people how wrong they are and how right we are.

But, I digress . . .my title today is ‘Finding Castles’ and I am happy to write that I have indeed found the Hawarden Castle. I again took a walk today in the Bilberry Wood. As I entered the big red gate, a local man, Mike, was approaching at the same time. He had two dogs. He greeted me . . . asked if I was staying at the Library. Yes, I said. I knew, he said, because you didn’t have a dog with you. All the locals have dogs. Only the people staying at the Library walk in these woods without dogs. I assured him that I have a dog at home and that seemed to help. We fell into a steady pace together. I asked about the castle . . . sure, he said, you can see it – it is right here. He gestured and sure enough, there behind the trees, the castle was obvious. But you had to be looking. Noticing.

One could certainly easily miss ‘Leopold’s Gate’ which is the entrance to the castle. Who would know that little door opens to what was once – in the 13th century – the grounds of a castle? The name marks the visit of Prince Leopold (who became the King of the Belgians) in 1819. In these parts, that is almost just yesterday!

Mike even led me to the end of a path beyond where you are not supposed to walk (because he knew the groundskeeper) so I could see the present castle – the Gladstone Castle – where the Gladstone’s now live.

And so it goes. Sometimes things that should be obvious aren’t. And sometimes, it takes having the time to look and the time to take a walk with the locals before one can find the castles that are hidden.

It’s been a good day overall. I found a castle – in fact I found two – and more besides! . .

Roads Taken and Not Taken

You know the poem I quote below . . . about roads taken and not taken. About risks taken and not taken. About choices and chances . . . about, well, as a poem, it hints at so much and what we hear depends a great deal on where we are in life.

I took a walk this morning. I entered the gates that at one time led to the Gladstone castle. They still do, in fact, but the path now is more a walking path for people like me who simply want to enjoy the day. It is no longer an access road to the castle. At least I couldn’t find it! But, with permit in hand (since some of the path is indeed still on private land), I ventured out. The day was lovely, the path well travelled for part of the way. And then, when I came to the part requiring a permit, it became less so. And I had some lovely time to myself. As I walked the poem took root in me and so I share it and a few of the pictures. And the question is . . . which is the path less travelled? How do we know?

The Road Not Taken

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim
Because it was grassy and wanted wear,
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I,
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

–Robert Frost

When the watches quit working

This morning was the first morning I had to just sleep in. I had, perhaps, the best night’s sleep yet . . . and it was marvelous! When the sun began to stream through my window, I shut the blind and slept another hour. I cannot recall the last time I did that! When I checked my watch on the bedside table, I noted that is read 3:00 . . . not correct, I knew! That was my first clue that the battery had run out. Not to worry, I mused . . . I had brought a second watch (just in case!) I am usually prepared always to know the time. To be prompt. To be responsible! So, I found my spare watch and put it on when I dressed for the day.

I had breakfast, and put in some laundry and sat down to do some reading – mostly on the area. I have a bus schedule and am pondering where I can get to between busses and trains. I looked at my watch to see how much longer the laundry would be in – and imagine this – that watch had quit working as well! What are the chances of that?

What does it mean when the watches quit working? I am wondering if I am getting a message to slow down and just enjoy the place? And the pace? So I am now needing to adjust to life without a watch – at least for a while. Of course, I have plenty of ways to know the time of things . . . but I am very aware of how difficult it can be to simply be ‘in the moment.’ I’m working on it for sure – in spite of myself!

Of course the mysteries of time become incredibly evident as one visits the town of Chester. Yesterday, after morning Eucharist, was free for me so I ventured out and took the local bus (#11, if you want to know) into Chester. It is just over the border into England – all part of the UK, of course. I visited the thousand year old Cathedral, saw the 2000 year-old Roman walls around the city, had cream tea and a scone at a small tea house – and mostly just wandered. I did not see the Roman amphitheater but I figure I can do that on another day.

My visit to the Cathedral had to be cut short since they were having a ‘big, private service, Ma’am,’ but I did get to see the gardens where where is a lovely sculpture (see pics). I also wandered in what was once the cloisters of the monks who lived there. There are stained glass windows of various bishops, saints, etc. Imagine my surprise to find one particular chap in glass . . . he is on the far right of 4 windows . . . yes, see the next window . . . none other than John Wesley! I’ve learned in my reading at the Library that he traveled quite a lot in this area and there he is in living glass! I also got a picture of the Cathredral coffee shop . . . where the monks at one time took their meals (in silence). It is quite lively today – but imagine how chilly and dark a room like that would have been without heat or lights! This was the only room in the monastery with a fireplace – but still, how much heat would that have given to the far reaches of the room?

I did find the local British Methodist Church. They run a lovely coffee house and seem to extend great hospitality in the downtown area of Chester. I didn’t eat there because they were into lunch and I really just wanted a scone . . . but I was impressed with the creativity of the local community and the hospitality they offered.

And so ends the latest entry. The bells of St. Deiniol’s just rang . . . eleven of them so, watch or not, I know the time. What an interesting way to find it out, however. It requires one to stop and listen and count. And breathe. Not bad . . . not bad at all!

Celebrating the 4th of July in Wales

Lest you be deceived, please be assured that for people here, the 4th of July is celebrated like any other weekday in July. The 4th is, for obvious reasons, a decidedly American celebration. As my day winds down, many of you are just getting started – preparing to watch a parade or readying picnics and camping gear or making plans for attending a fireworks display.

I began the day when many of you were still asleep. I was the officiant for our Eucharist this morning at 8:00 a.m. (that’s 1:00 a.m. Montana time). I used it as an opportunity to invite us all to pray for peace and used, as our prayer of intercession, a beautiful prayer for World Peace by Joan Chittister. As I believe I have mentioned before, the custom here is to follow the order of the Church of Wales. It is a lovely liturgy and, overall, very Catholic. Frankly, I think it might be difficult for someone who does not have a Catholic, Anglican or Episcopalian background to get the ‘hang of this’ quickly. For me, though, there was something very familiar about it all – even though I needed to follow the ‘book’ quite closely. After all, I’ve been away from it for a long time.

Following Eucharist and breakfast, I headed to the Library for some work planning upcoming sermons and worship . As soon as I entered the Library, the Head Librarian who was at the front desk smiled at me and whispered Happy 4th of July! I must admit, I was surprised and touched. She had not been at the morning Eucharist, by the way, so this was her own awareness – of who I was and where I came from. It wasn’t a big deal and nothing more was said but I thought about how easy it is for any of us to make someone feel at home with a simple personal comment.

One of the things I have enjoyed very much already is allowing myself to simply browse the Library. I am not working on anything in particular, as far as research is concerned, so at some point each time I am in there, I let my eyes wander over the books and find something interesting. Today I found a book, published in 1857, written by a English Methodist clergyman who was asked by the Methodist Conference in Leeds to attend the US Methodist General Conference in Indianapolis in May, 1856. (To your question at this point – why might one find that interesting? – I have no response!) He had hoped to bring his wife along but her mother became ill and so she had to stay home. Rev. Jobson wrote her extensive letters describing what he found in America. He later published these letter as a book. It was a delightful find…I only took time to skim the book. It was, actually, difficult to read because many of the pages were not cut – it is a very old book! However, I was able to read most of his conclusion. He wants his fellow Englishmen to know that, while they may indeed prefer England and be grateful they were born in the greenery and beauty of the ‘homeland,’ America is a good place and Americans are decent people. He challenges the tendency of so many to find the Americans crude and comical. They are not, he says, and they have a beautiful country that they love and much potential and a spirit that will serve them well. He rightfully calls slavery a serious moral failing but he sees hope in the common desire he found that the North and South ‘stay together.’ Overall, it was a nice 4th of July reading – and I was thrilled to find that the entire book is on microfilm and can be accessed easily through the Internet! But it is the kind of thing I would never have even known to look for without this bit of time for reflective exploring. I’ll include a picture of two of the book.

Tonight is my first official night ‘on duty.’ The reception staff has now left for the day. So far everyone has checked in so I don’t have to do that . . .although if someone goes out and forgets the code to get in, I’ll need to run out to open the door. Other than that, at about ‘half-nine’ (9:30 in US-speak), I will begin my walk though of the building – closing windows, checking fire doors, turning off lights, cleaning the common room – and, the big one, locking the Library. Have a gander at the wad of keys I use . . . !

Happy 4th of July…enjoy fireworks and picnics and each other. The sun has come out here in Wales so I’m doing a bit of celebrating too!

New Beginnings

I have now been here almost two full days! The weather continues to be cool – which, they tell me, is normal. One of the librarians told me ‘all we talk about is the weather – and if the sun is out, we cancel everything and get out to enjoy it!’ Well, we had a bit of sunshine yesterday – as well as rain and mostly clouds. Today dawned cloudy and windy – actually, so far, it has been windy quite a lot. Today is forecast to be just 55 with rain. I have a feeling this should be a ‘library’ day! And that, of course, comes in quite handy since I am living at a library! I got a brief flavor of it yesterday as I spent some time in the library itself. In fact, I started reading a small book on Susanna Wesley (published in the late 1800’s) and another on anecdotes from John Wesley’s life (that one was published in 1864, I believe!).

Someone on Facebook asked me just what my ‘purpose’ is in coming here to Gladstone’s Library. What a good question! A few times in the past 48 hours, I’ve asked myself the same question . . . after working hard to get everything ready to leave for two months, it is indeed strange to suddenly be in a foreign country at a new place learning new duties – yet having most of the day free to study, read, pray, walk, learn. In many ways, that is the purpose – having a few weeks of time to do exactly those things. As I wandered in the library yesterday, I found myself marveling at the books – many of them quite old – and relishing the opportunity to read and ponder, with no purpose other than delighting in learning.

Last night, I had my first orientation to the ‘locking up’ duties that I will have a couple times a week. Locking up happens each night around 10. It entails a complete walk-through of the building, checking windows, fire escape doors, turning off lights and locking doors. The biggest part of that job seems to be the locking up of the Library for the night. There is something amazing about walking among all those books and ‘putting them to sleep’ for the night. Then there are the big medieval-type doors to be shut and latched. I didn’t get any pictures of it all last night but I’ll be sure to share some soon. I will do another walk through tonight – there seems to be a lot to remember – it took us 50 minutes last night!

This morning I attended morning Eucharist. I will be the celebrant of that a couple times a week as one of my duties. They follow the rubric of the Church of Wales – which is very similar to the Church of England. Frankly, my experience at St. Paul’s is not too helpful in preparation for this…I’ll be reaching back to my Catholic roots for this! Overall the liturgy is lovely but it is new for me so this too is a learning curve. I am grateful that the liturgy we use was revised in 2004 so there is little archaic language. There is some room for creativity but not a lot…it will be interesting! I celebrate the Eucharist for the first time on July 4th so while many of you are camping and picnic-ing and watching fireworks, I’ll be honoring the day in a different way!

I have already met fascinating people here – a History Professor from Florida doing research on William Gladstone’s attitudes toward Ireland; an Anglican clergywoman from Oxford working on her book on ‘mothering as a metaphor for parish ministry,’ a gentleman who is working on a book exploring the similarities between Martin Luther with Karl Marx, a Quaker woman from Dorset attending a conference here who asked why the Americans are so slow to close Guantanamo . . . the list could go on. Then there are the two library interns, Jamie and Gary and the marketing intern, Emma, and the staff – incredibly interesting and thoughtful people. The restaurant here is marvelous and the kitchen staff wonderful.

In summary . . . so far, so good! I’m just taking one day at a time and trying not to fret too much about the ‘duties’ that seem a bit daunting since they are so new. And now, as you in the States still sleep, I believe I’ll pay a visit to Susanna Wesley at that Library!

Below you’ll find a few pics of my simple but adequate room…and, for those who wonder, the bed is great – quite comfortable. I am already over jet lag!

First Impressions

If I were to be true to the spirit of things here, I’d be writing this in both Welsh and English. As soon as we crossed the ‘border’ between England and Wales, all signs were in both languages. The driver who picked me up at the airport told me he lived in Chester but actually grew up in Wales. All Welsh children are required to learn Welsh. But…I’ve only been here a few hours so . . . there will be no Welsh here!

The journey from Manchester to Hawarden, which should have taken about an hour took almost two. There was an accident on the ‘motorway’ so serious that the road was totally backed up. Bad news for those in the accident. For me, however, it was a treat because the driver got off the motorway and drove small country roads through lovely English villages almost the entire way here. It took longer but was just wonderful!

Gladstone’s Library is located smack dab in the midst of Hawarden (pronounced Harden). As far as I can see, there are two pubs, a coffee shop, two beauty shops, a post office, a drug store and two dress shops. Oh, and a castle . . . haven’t found that yet but I know it is out there somewhere. After arriving and getting my key and a brief tour of the place, I spent time unpacking and then took a walking tour of the little town. The Library is located on “Church Street” (see the pictures – of the sign and the street). The ‘church’ is St. Deniol’s which was the home church for William Gladstone. I spent time walking through it as well – as well as the cemetery surrounding the church. That will take some more exploring later. I did, however, take a picture of my room from the cemetery. If you look under the left dormer window, you’ll see 4 narrower windows, one of which has an upper window open – that’s my home for the next month!

As for accommodations . . . I am in an ‘apartment like’ area with two library interns and a marketing intern. We each have our own rooms (Lyle will be glad to know that) and we share a bathroom. The room is spacious but simple – quite nice for study and reflection.

I met the warden (strange word for us but it means the person in charge here), Peter Francis. He warmly welcomed me and assured me I had no duties today. (I was relieved – I have a lot to learn before I can welcome people adequately and that is one of my jobs!) Sounds like tomorrow is orientation day!

There is a 7 hour time difference between here and Helena. I admit, it seems strange that, as I get ready for a 6:45 dinner, people at St. Paul’s are just beginning worship. Thanks Rick Hulbert and Tyler Amundson for what I know is a great Sunday…and welcome to all the new members. As the church bells ring at St. Deniols and the evening approaches in Hawarden (pronounced ‘Harden’ – that’s the last reminder!), I’m thinking of you all!

Packed and ready to go

Success! This little suitcase is FULL to be sure…but I succeeded in getting everything I think I want in there. Tomorrow is departure day and, so far, everything looks to be on time. I’ll update when I arrive in Wales! In the meantime, enjoy the weekend! Rick Hulbert is preaching. Tyler making sure all goes smoothly. I’ll miss summer in Helena, for sure. But I am excited about the adventure to come